Types of Leather Used in Footwear: What Every Shoe Buyer Should Know
Understanding the types of leather used in footwear is one of the smartest ways to buy better shoes. High-quality leather not only transforms the look of a boot or loafer. It also determines longevity, comfort and how beautifully the shoe ages. With so many leather kinds, leather categories and grades of leather available in the market. It can feel overwhelming to choose the right pair. This detailed guide simplifies everything a modern UK shoe buyer needs to know. while helping you make informed choices - especially when investing in premium handcrafted footwear from SaintG UK.
Whether you're browsing ankle boots, dress shoes or luxury leather sneakers. Knowing the materials gives you a real advantage. It ensures you never overpay for low-grade leather and always recognise true craftsmanship.
Why Leather Quality Matters in Footwear
Leather is not just a surface material. It affects:
• How comfortable the shoe feels
• How well it moulds to your foot
• How long it lasts
• How it handles UK weather
• How premium and polished it looks
High-grade leather develops a natural patina. handles creasing gracefully and can be restored for years. Meanwhile, poor-quality leather cracks. peels and loses shape quickly. Understanding the different types of leather helps you avoid that disappointment.
Main Leather Categories Used in Shoes
Leather is broadly categorised based on how much of the original hide is preserved and how it is processed. These leather categories are the foundation of footwear quality.
1. Full-Grain Leather (Highest Quality)
Full-grain leather is considered the most premium of all types of leather. It uses the top layer of the hide with the natural grain intact. This means the leather is extremely durable, breathable and capable of developing a rich patina.
Why it is ideal for footwear:
• Maximum strength
• Maintains structure over time
• Ages beautifully
• Resistant to moisture compared to lower grades
SaintG UK often uses high-quality full-grain leather for its luxury boots and shoes. ensuring longevity and a refined wearing experience.
Best for: Premium boots, dress shoes, luxury everyday styles.
2. Top-Grain Leather (High Quality)
Top-grain leather sits just below full-grain. It is lightly sanded or buffed to remove imperfections. resulting in a softer and more uniform appearance.
Advantages:
• Smooth finish
• Slightly more flexible
• More resistant to stains than full-grain
• Lower cost while still premium
Best for: High-end fashion footwear, elegant women’s boots, refined men’s shoes.
3. Genuine Leather (Mid-Level Quality)
Despite the name. "genuine leather" actually refers to mid-tier leather. It is made from layers of the hide that remain after the top layers are used.
Features:
• Affordable
• Good for casual use
• Less durable
• Less breathable
It's a practical option but not one for long-term investment footwear. A brand positioning itself in luxury - like SaintG UK - typically avoids this grade for mainline collections.
4. Split Leather
Split leather comes from the fibrous lower layers of the hide once the top-grain is removed. It is often used for suede and nubuck.
Characteristics:
• Smooth and velvety (suede), or finely buffed (nubuck)
• Flexible and fashionable
• Not as durable as grain leather
• Requires more care
Split leather is exceptionally stylish when crafted by skilled artisans. making it perfect for premium suede boots.
5. Bonded Leather (Lowest Quality)
Bonded leather is made from leather scraps that are bonded with adhesive and finished with synthetic coatings.
Limitations:
• Least durable
• Prone to peeling
• Doesn’t age well
• Highly affordable but short-lived
It is rarely used in quality footwear and not recommended for buyers seeking value.
Common Leather Kinds Used in Footwear
Beyond categories and grades. There are leather kinds defined by texture, finishing and purpose. Each offers distinct benefits.
1. Smooth Leather
Smooth leather refers to polished grain leathers used in elegant footwear. It gives shoes a refined appearance.
Why buyers love it:
• Easy to maintain
• Polishes well
• Timeless look
• Suitable for formal and casual wear
2. Suede
Suede comes from the underside of the hide. It has a soft, brushed texture.
Pros:
• Lightweight
• Luxurious appearance
• Adds depth to outfit styling
Cons:
• Sensitive to water
• Requires regular brushing and protection spray
SaintG UK often treats suede with protective finishes to improve durability - ideal for unpredictable UK weather.
3. Nubuck
Nubuck is similar to suede but made from the grain side. Giving it more strength.
Advantages:
• Velvety texture
• More robust than suede
• Ages with character
4. Patent Leather
Patent leather is coated for a glossy effect.
Benefits:
• Eye-catching shine
• Water-resistant
• Perfect for evening or occasion footwear
5. Nappa Leather
Nappa is one of the softest leather kinds – supple. smooth and luxurious.
Why it is prized:
• Extremely wearable
• Flexible
• Premium feel against the foot
Nappa is often used in luxury designer shoes.
6. Pebbled or Grained Leather
This leather has a textured, dimpled surface created through embossing or natural grain patterning.
Strengths:
• Scratch-resistant
• Offers grip and durability
• Stylish for everyday boots
7. Pull-Up Leather
Pull-up leather is treated with oils or waxes that lighten when stretched.
Features:
• Rustic. heritage look
• Ages uniquely
• Softens beautifully
Ideal for boots with personality.
Specialty Leather Materials Used in Boots
Stretch Suede
Stretch suede combines soft suede leather with elastic fibres to allow flexibility and a close fit around the leg. It is commonly used in high ankle and thigh high boots, offering comfort, ease of movement and a smooth matte appearance suitable for extended wear.
Stretch Napa Leather
Stretch napa leather is made from fine napa leather blended with stretch properties. It provides a smooth surface, natural softness and adaptive structure, allowing boots to contour comfortably to the leg while maintaining a clean, high-quality finish.
Suede Leather
Suede leather is created from the underside of the hide, giving it a soft, textured surface. It is often used in fashion-focused boots and seasonal footwear, offering visual depth and comfort, though it requires more care in wet conditions.
Full-Grain Napa Leather
Full-grain napa leather uses the top layer of the hide while maintaining a soft feel. It offers strength, breathability and long-term wear, making it suitable for premium boots designed for regular use and durability.
How Leather Grades Affect Shoe Lifespan
Leather is not only about categories - grades of leather directly influence durability.
High-grade leather:
• Breathes better
• Maintains a pleasant fit over time
• Resists cracking
• Shapes to your foot
• Improves with age
Low-grade leather:
• Peels
• Creases poorly
• Retains odours
• Looks worn quickly
This is why premium shoe brands emphasise sourcing from responsible tanneries and using top-tier grades.
How to Identify Good Leather When Buying Shoes
Shoppers often struggle to judge leather quality. Here is a simple checklist.
1. Touch
Premium leather feels soft yet firm. not plasticky.
2. Smell
Real leather is warm. organic scent.
3. Flex Test
Bend the shoe gently. Quality leather flexes smoothly without cracking.
4. Grain Consistency
Full-grain and top-grain show natural texture. not overly uniform patterns.
5. Weight
Good leather feels substantial but not heavy.
6. Water Absorption Test
A drop of water should absorb slowly - not bead off like plastic.
Which Types of Leather Are Best for Footwear?
Based on durability, wearability, and appearance:
Best Overall:
Full-grain leather
Perfect for boots. long-lasting shoes and luxury designs.
Best for Dress Shoes:
Top-grain leather
Smooth. Elegant. Refined.
Best for Fashion Wear:
Nubuck and suede
Textured. Stylish. Premium.
Best for Soft Wear:
Nappa leather
Best for Casual Everyday Boots:
Grained leather
Resilient. Forgiving. Attractive.
Why SaintG UK Uses High-Quality Leather Only
SaintG UK focuses on craftsmanship, ensuring every pair is made from carefully sourced premium leathers. The brand blends artistry with functional design, ensuring:
• High-performing materials
• Better foot support
• Long-term durability
• Rich textures and luxury finishes
• Ethical manufacturing standards
Choosing SaintG UK means investing in shoes designed to last – and to age gracefully with wear.
How to Care for Each Leather Type
Good leather deserves good care. especially in the UK climate.
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Full-grain and top-grain:
Use cream polish. conditioner and occasional waterproof spray.
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Suede and nubuck:
Use a suede brush. eraser and protector spray.
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Patent:
Wipe with a damp cloth and shine with a patent cleaner.
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Pull-up:
Apply wax-based conditioners to restore softness.
Proper care extends your shoes’ life significantly.
How to Choose the Right Leather for Your Shoes
Here is a simple decision-making guide:
• Want long-lasting everyday boots? Choose full-grain leather.
• Want sleek, premium shoes? Top-grain leather is ideal.
• Prefer soft, flexible wear? Go for Nappa leather.
• Love texture and casual luxury? Pick suede or nubuck.
• Need something rugged and stylish? Pull-up or grained leather works well.
Understanding the different types of leather helps you match your lifestyle and fashion taste with the right footwear effortlessly.
Final Thoughts
Understanding the types of leather used in footwear empowers you to shop with confidence. You now know the leather categories, leather kinds and grades of leather that define shoe quality. and how to choose the right material for your needs.
For those seeking long-lasting, premium footwear crafted with exceptional leather. SaintG UK offers beautifully handmade designs engineered for comfort. quality and style.
FAQs
1. Is suede a type of leather?
Yes. suede is a type of leather. It is made from the underside of the animal hide, giving it a soft, velvety texture. Although it is less durable than full-grain or top-grain leather. Suede offers a luxurious feel and is widely used in premium footwear.
2. What are the 5 types of leather?
The five commonly recognised types of leather are:
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Full-grain leather
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Top-grain leather
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Genuine leather
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Split leather
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Bonded leather
These vary in quality, strength and longevity, with full-grain being the highest grade.
3. What are the 4 grades of leather?
Leather is typically graded based on quality and the amount of natural hide retained:
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Full-grain: Highest grade, natural surface preserved
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Top-grain: Lightly sanded for a smooth, uniform appearance
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Corrected-grain / Genuine leather: Mid-tier, surface corrected
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Bonded leather: Lowest grade, made from leather scraps and fibres
4. What is category 20 leather?
Category 20 leather usually refers to a pricing or quality band used by certain tanneries or furniture manufacturers. It often indicates semi-aniline or pigmented leathers with added protection. It is not a global leather standard but a classification used within specific industries.
5. How is leather classified?
Leather is classified by:
• Grain quality (full-grain, top-grain, split, bonded)
• Finish (aniline, semi-aniline, pigmented, nubuck, suede)
• Animal origin (cowhide, sheepskin, goat, buffalo, etc.)
• Processing method (chrome-tanned, vegetable-tanned)
These classifications determine durability, feel and appearance.
6. Why is leather used for shoes and accessories?
Leather is valued for being strong, breathable, flexible, and long-lasting. It moulds naturally to the foot, ages beautifully, and withstands regular wear better than most synthetic materials. Premium brands like SaintG UK choose leather for its foot-friendly fit and durability.
7. What type of leather is best for footwear?
For long-lasting, premium shoes and boots. Full-grain leather is considered the best. It retains the hide’s natural grain, offering exceptional durability, breathability and character. Top-grain and high-quality suede are also excellent depending on style and use.
8. Where does real leather come from?
Real leather is made from animal hides—most commonly cowhide. but also goatskin, sheepskin and buffalo. The hide is tanned and processed to create durable material used in shoes, bags and apparel.
9. Is genuine leather real leather?
Yes. genuine leather is real leather. However, It is a mid-grade material made from the layers beneath the top grain. It is real but not as durable or premium as full-grain or top-grain leather.
10. Which leather is the most durable?
Full-grain leather is the most durable. It keeps the original grain and fibre structure intact. making it extremely strong. resilient and long-lasting. With proper care, full-grain leather footwear can last for many years.