Men's Leather Jacket Styles: How to Choose the Right Style and Fit

The main men's leather jacket styles are the biker, the bomber, the cafe racer, the collar jacket and the band-collar jacket. Each has a different shape, a different length and a slightly different fit, so the right choice depends on what you'll wear it with and how you like a jacket to sit.

This guide explains how to tell the styles apart, what the different types of leather mean, how a leather jacket should fit, and why a size S in one style can measure quite differently from a size S in another. All the measurements below come from the size tables on our product pages, and you can browse every style in our men's leather jackets collection.

Men's Leather Jacket Styles at a Glance

Biker Jackets

The biker is the leather jacket most people picture first. Look for an asymmetric zip, a wide collar that snaps down, zipped cuffs and plenty of pockets. It's the most casual of the styles and the easiest to wear with jeans and boots.

A biker suits you if you like a jacket with a bit of attitude. It works best when the rest of the outfit is simple: a plain T-shirt, dark jeans and boots.

Saint Harley Choco Leather Men's Biker Jacket
Chocolate nappa leather with a snap collar, zipped cuffs with strap detail, an angled chest pocket, two zipped side pockets and a snap-button hem.
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Bomber Jackets

A leather bomber is the easy, everyday option. The ribbed waist and cuffs gather the jacket in, so it sits at the waist with a little room through the body. It has less detail than a biker, which makes it simpler to wear with almost anything.

Wear a bomber over a hoodie or a crew-neck knit at the weekend, or over a shirt with chinos for something smarter.

Saint Arduin Black Washed Leather Men's Bomber Jacket
Washed black leather with a spread collar, ribbed waist and cuffs, two zipped pockets and a cotton and taffeta lining.
Shop Saint Arduin Black →

The same style comes in chocolate brown, available up to XXL.

Cafe Racer Jackets

A cafe racer has a straight centre zip, a small snap collar and a shorter, closer cut. With so little on the front, it looks most at home with smarter clothes. For a side-by-side comparison, see our guide to the difference between biker and cafe racer jackets.

Saint Agostino Olive Leather Men's Cafe Racer Jacket
Hand-painted olive calf leather with a snap collar, zipped cuffs and four zipped pockets.
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Collar Jackets

A collar jacket swaps lapels for a shirt-style collar, so it looks more like an overshirt than a biker. It's a good choice if you want leather without the rock-and-roll associations, and it layers well over a fine-knit jumper.

Saint Aris Black Suede Leather Men's Jacket With Collars
Black suede leather with a shirt collar, a zip front, two outside pockets and a satin lining. £450.
Shop Saint Aris →

Band-Collar Jackets

A band collar (sometimes called a mandarin collar) stands up around the neck with no lapels at all. It gives the cleanest front of any leather jacket, so it works with minimal outfits: black jeans, a white T-shirt or a roll neck.

Saint Vittorio Black Leather Men's Jacket
Sheep nappa leather with a band collar, ribbed cuffs and hem, a nickel zip and two zipped pockets. £418 (was £500).
Shop Saint Vittorio →

Types of Leather Used in Men's Leather Jackets

The type of leather changes how a jacket looks and feels, and how you look after it. Here's what the most common terms mean.

Always check the product page, which lists the exact material for each jacket. For how these leathers are used in shoes and boots, see our guide to types of leather used in footwear.

Smooth Leather or Suede?

Smooth leather, such as nappa, has a sleeker surface and is easier to wipe clean. Suede has a soft, brushed texture that looks more relaxed, but it needs a suede brush and more care, so keep it for dry days.

Saint Valen Men's Tan Suede Leather Jacket
Tan suede leather with a button front, a round collar, ribbed waist and cuffs, two slip pockets and a cotton and taffeta lining.
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For a suede bomber, try the Saint Carlo in green. For looking after either finish, see how to care for a leather jacket.

How Should a Men's Leather Jacket Fit?

A leather jacket should sit close through the shoulders and chest without pulling when you move. Check these five points when you try one on:

• Shoulders: The seam should sit at the edge of your shoulder, not hang past it.

• Chest: You should be able to zip it up over a T-shirt or thin knit without the front pulling tight.

• Sleeves: With your arms by your sides, the cuff should reach your wrist bone.

• Length: A biker or cafe racer usually sits at or just above your belt. A bomber's ribbed hem sits at your waist.

• Movement: Reach forward and cross your arms. If the back feels tight or the sleeves ride up a long way, try the next size.

Why Size S Isn't the Same in Every Style

Leather jackets are cut differently for each style, so the same size label can mean very different measurements. Here's what a size S measures across five of our jackets, taken from each product's size table:

That's an 8 cm difference in chest and a 12.5 cm difference in length between two jackets labelled S. So don't assume your size carries over from one style to the next.

The easiest way to get it right:

1. Take a jacket you already own that fits well and lay it flat.

2. Measure the chest (armpit to armpit, doubled), the back length (collar seam to hem) and the sleeve.

3. Compare those numbers with the size table on the product page you're looking at.

Our general  size guide is a useful starting point, but each jacket's own table is the one to trust.

Don't size down expecting the leather to give. Choose the size that fits your shoulders and chest now.

Black or Brown: Which Colour to Choose

Black is the easiest place to start. It goes with every shade of denim, looks sharp in the evening, and suits the biker and band-collar styles especially well.

Brown feels a little more relaxed. Chocolate and tan pair well with blue jeans, chinos, cream knits and navy, and they suit bombers and suede jackets particularly well.

If you already own a black jacket, olive, navy or grey make a good second choice. Our range includes the Saint Aris bomber in navy and the Saint Parc in grey. Keep the rest of the outfit neutral so the jacket does the talking.

How to Style a Men's Leather Jacket

Casual: A white or grey T-shirt, straight or slim jeans and boots. This works with every style, but it's the natural home of the biker and the bomber.

Smart-casual: A cafe racer or collar jacket over an Oxford shirt or fine knit, with chinos or dark tailored trousers. Swap trainers for Chelsea boots or loafers.

Evening: A black band-collar jacket over a black roll neck, with black trousers. Simple, clean and hard to get wrong.

Layering: A bomber has the most room for a hoodie or chunky knit underneath. A cafe racer is cut closer, so stick to a T-shirt or thin knit.

Explore the full men's leather jackets collection and compare styles, finishes and size measurements.